Guest story: Trans Tramuntana

Off to Mallorca: The Trans Tramuntana awaits us

The idea to spend a week traveling together came to my sister and me about two months before our travel to Majorca. Growing up, we spent every summer vacation in the Austrian Alps. At the time, hiking wasn’t really our hobby—it was our parents’—but over the years, we both caught the hiking bug. Since we were planning for the second half of October, we wanted a destination in the south. After considering a few options, we finally settled on Majorca, hoping the island would still offer pleasant hiking weather. We also appreciated the relatively short travel time from Switzerland, as Majorca is easily reached by plane from across Europe.

When I asked my boss for time off, he asked where I was going. “Majorca,” I said. “The party mile?” he laughed. “Absolutely not! Majorca is perfect for hiking,” I replied, a little defensively. Majorca is so much more than just for partying! I know this from experience—fifteen years ago, my partner and I hiked the GR 221 long-distance trail, far less comfortably, with backpacks, a tent, and a guidebook for La Ruta de Pedra en Sec. This time, we opted for the luxury version: staying in beautiful hotels, with transfers for our luggage and ourselves, so we could enjoy more downhill than uphill stretches. The routes were planned for us, and we could navigate easily using the Eurohike On Tour app.

Coastal hiking on the Alcúdia Peninsula

We didn’t arrive at our hotel in Platja d’Alcúdia until around 7 p.m. on the first day. The hotel is huge and surprisingly busy for this time of year. Given our late arrival, we were especially glad that dinner was included. We simply sat down and enjoyed the variety of the buffet—it was a feast, and we both thoroughly appreciated it. Breakfast the next morning was just as delicious, which was important since at 8:45 a.m. we were meeting our Eurohike representative, who would take us to the starting point of our first hike. I had expected an easy “warm-up” hike, but the Eurohike guide surprised us: “Today is the most challenging hike of the week.” Our main goal, he said, was simply to stay on the trail. We began on clearly marked, increasingly narrow, and very scenic paths until we reached a fork leading up to Talaia d’Alcúdia. From there, the trail became less obvious. Markings were rare, but signs of local wildlife were everywhere. This was when the Eurohike On Tour app really proved its worth, helping us navigate past the forks we weren’t supposed to take. Soon, we found ourselves back on a wide forest trail. To the left, a beautiful, secluded beach appeared. The weather was perfect for hiking but too cool for a swim, so we pressed on, eager to visit Alcúdia’s old town after the hike.

After about fifteen minutes, we turned right onto a narrower path, passing through a small gorge on a brief “jungle tour” before emerging onto grassy slopes. We spotted Talaia d’Alcúdia again, now from the other side, but turned away to enjoy a breathtaking view over Alcúdia Bay.

Hiker with pink backpack on rocky mountain trail near Alcudia, overlooking Mediterranean Sea and distant mountains under cloudy sky.

Enchanting starry sky above Lluc

Today, we were headed to Lluc Monastery. Our Eurohike representative let us off just past Pollença, placing us on the GR 221 long-distance trail for the first time. From there, the route was straightforward—the GR 221 is very well marked.

Basking in the sun, we strolled past olive trees and grassy meadows, surrounded by the dramatic mountains of the Tramuntana. We gradually ascended through shaded forests, sometimes following old mule paths, passing several enormous trees said to be over 500 years old. As we approached the plateau where Lluc Monastery sits, the trails grew busier and we encountered more fellow hikers. We arrived in the early afternoon, and I worried we might get bored, being in the middle of nowhere with no town or beach nearby. But the monastery had plenty to keep us occupied: beyond the impressive buildings, there’s a beautiful Way of the Cross with sweeping mountain views, a charming botanical garden, and even a swimming pool. The grounds also feature three restaurants, a small shop, and a bakery. After dinner, we noticed from our room window that the stars were exceptionally bright against the dark sky. We ended the day with one last stroll along the Way of the Cross, soaking in the peaceful evening until nightfall.

Stone courtyard of Monastery Lluc with outdoor café, historic buildings, and Tramuntana Mountains in the background under blue sky.

Hiker on stone path near historic monastery building at Lluc, Tramuntana. Trees frame the scene with mountains in the background.

Making friends on the way

Although we hike individually, we meet the other Eurohike travelers at the hotels and on the bus—a diverse group. There’s a couple from Germany, a couple from Denmark, a Danish mother with her daughter, and then us, two Dutch sisters. We also keep crossing paths with two German cousins and their friend, as well as a couple from England. They’re on a different Eurohike route, but the paths overlap at times. It’s wonderful how easy it is to strike up casual friendships, even if only for the week.

Pilgrimage Trail to Cuber Reservoir

After breakfast, we grabbed some fresh bread from the monastery bakery for the trail. The Eurohike buses are already waiting to take us to the Cuber reservoir. Today, another highlight awaits us: we will pass the highest point of the GR 221, the “Coll del Prat.” The route was wonderfully varied: we started with a beautiful view of the Gorg Blau reservoir, then walked through an oak forest, and finally emerged onto open terrain with sweeping views of the Tramuntana mountains. The sky was bright blue, the visibility spectacular, and only the brisk wind reminded us that it’s autumn in Europe. Our descent took us past restored Casas de Neu, the old snow houses. Long ago, snow was collected here, high in the mountains. Does it still snow in winter? Thanks to the earlier “ice harvest,” there’s an old mule track, now restored, leading down to Lluc—the Cami ses Voltes.

We had booked a later dinner because we wanted to watch the sunset from the Way of the Cross first. The surrounding peaks turned orange and pink at first, then the western sky deepened into shades of pink, purple, and finally a rich blue, signaling the end of the spectacle. We spent a good hour taking it all in before heading to dinner at the monastery restaurant. The atmosphere there is surprisingly cozy—it feels more like a large hikers’ guesthouse than a monastery, with none of the silence and solemnity you might expect.

Hiker with backpack standing on rocky trail viewing Tramuntana mountain range under blue sky with scattered clouds and green vegetation.

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Panoramic views in the Tramuntana Mountains

Another epic hiking day awaited us. We started again at the Cuber Reservoir, this time heading in the opposite direction. The landscape looked almost like Scotland—misty, rugged, and dramatic—but that only added to its charm. We finally left the reservoirs behind and, after a short ascent, began our descent through the Barranc de Biniaraix. The wind was relentless. Having seen the weather warnings predicting a European autumn storm, we skipped any alternative hikes to viewpoints. Still, the Barranc de Biniaraix was was nothing short of spectacular.

When we reach the bottom of the Barranco, the wind suddenly dies down. The sun is shining and summer is back! Sóller is a charming little town. Wow, how many people! After two days at the monastery, the crowd almost felt overwhelming. We redeemed our voucher for an orange gelato and enjoyed it on a quiet terrace tucked away in a back courtyard. I hadn’t realized just how good orange gelato could be—or how many variations there are!

We were excited to get back to the sea. Our hotel in Port de Sóller sits right on the beach, and we were ready to finally take a dip. But as soon as we set foot on the promenade, large clouds rolled in, blocking the sun. Well, swimming would have to wait—there’s always tomorrow. The sunset, however, more than made up for it. We ended the day with one last stroll from the promenade down to the harbor, savoring the sky painted with the most beautiful colors.

Hiker with red backpack on rocky mountain trail facing dramatic limestone peaks of Cornador Gran on the Trans Tramuntana route.

Along the coast from Deia to Sóller

We were driven along a scenic route to Deià, a charming artists' village perched between rocky cliffs and the sea. Today offered two main routes—the Coastal Trail and the Post Route—but we opted for a third option: a combination of both, aiming for the lighthouse above Port de Sóller. Zuerst geht es runter ans Meer. Unsere Bikinis sind im Tagesrucksack, denn wir wollen heute unbedingt baden. First, we descended toward the water. Our bikinis were tucked into our daypacks, as we were determined to swim. Cala de Deià is a tiny, stunning cove where we found the restaurant staff busily preparing for the day. After a short detour, we arrive at the GR221.

Soon we passed a restaurant with a cozy terrace and panoramic views. At one table sat two familiar faces from our group—fast hikers who somehow found time to stop at every terrace along the way. Tempting as it was, we reminded ourselves of our goal: to swim. We waved and continued on a variant of the GR 221 toward Refugi de Muleta. An old stone path led us there, testing our knees, but once we reached the lighthouse towering over Port de Sóller, the remainder of the route was an easy downhill stroll on asphalt, with breathtaking views of the bay.

And then, finally, it was time—we plunged into the sea! The storm had stirred up the water, so it wasn’t perfectly clear, but we didn’t mind. It was worth every step—the water was still pleasantly warm, and we swam in the Mediterranean at the end of October. Pure bliss!

Panoramic view of Port de Sóller bay with turquoise water, harbor, coastal town, and Tramuntana mountains under blue sky with white clouds.

From Port Sóller to the island's capital

We began the day hiking through Fornalutx toward Sóller. This time there was no transfer—we started right from our hotel. Luckily, as always, we were traveling light, since our luggage was already being transported to the island’s capital. Today it was really warm. The outskirts of Sóller have narrow streets, and our attempts to stay on the shady side weren’t always successful. A few days ago, we had marveled at how close cars park to the house walls here. Finally, we were back on a proper hiking trail. But where was Fornalutx? Even though we started early, it took longer than expected to reach the village. Fortunately, we had enough time to wander up and down its charming lanes. It’s truly a beautiful village, tucked quietly in a corner of the Sóller valley. We continued briskly toward Sóller, eager not to miss the the historic red train at 2:00 p.m. After the long approach, the town suddenly appeared before us, and we enjoyed the scenic train ride to Palma. The climb out of Sóller was especially beautiful, followed by a long stretch through the Tramuntana mountains—a route we hadn’t taken before. From Palma’s train station, a bus took us directly to our Hotel.

And yes, we still needed dinner. Every day we had kept things simple and eaten at the hotel after our first good experience in Alcúdia. Today, we wanted to explore local options. We walked along the beach but didn’t find anything appealing, so we returned to the hotel. On the way back, just near the hotel, we made one last attempt: the restaurant Ballermännle. Nope—back to the hotel! And just like that, I almost ended up at the party mile after all!

Traditional stone buildings in Fornalutx village with mountain backdrop. Narrow street between beige stone houses with green shutters under blue sky.

Panoramic view of Sóller town nestled in a valley, surrounded by the Tramuntana Mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

Two hikers on stone-walled mountain path overlooking Serra de Tramuntana valley with sea view. Rocky cliffs and Mediterranean vegetation visible.

Indoor market in Deià with bakery and fruit stand. Fresh produce displayed in wooden crates, postcards on rack, customer browsing.

Vibrant pink bougainvillea blooms in foreground with traditional stone buildings of Fornalutx village under blue sky.

Cobblestone hiking trail in Biniaraix winding through rocky terrain with Mediterranean vegetation, mountains and valley views in the background.

Our conclusion

Although I first hiked the GR 221 fifteen years ago, this experience felt completely new. There were stretches I hadn’t seen before, sometimes we went in the opposite direction, and other times it simply didn’t match my memories. I was amazed at how fresh and vibrant the journey felt.

As I talked it over with my sister, I joked, “I could do this again in another fifteen years!” She replied, “I’m coming too!” After a brief pause, she added, “Then you’ll be 67!” Ouch—I hadn’t thought of that. Laughing, we agreed to aim for ten years instead. I’ve already spotted a Eurobike cycling tour on Majorca. Surely we could tackle that one by e-bike when we’re 62 and 59!

Two smiling blonde women with sunglasses pose in front of a blue hiking trail sign showing hiker symbols, surrounded by trees.

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