Adventurous coastal tour on the Alcúdia peninsula
What an introduction to the Trans Tramuntana! Directly on Day 1 I can hardly help but be amazed. Breathtaking views of the Bay of Pollença and the peninsula of Formentor are offered by the narrow mountain path along the cliffs, which lead me to a fantastic vantage point including old cannon barrels.
Adrenaline shoots through my body as I scramble through a narrow crevice in the rock. The wild mountain goats that accompany me everywhere with their bleating are far more sure-footed. Well, maybe in the next life I will manage to move about the rocky and steep terrain as relaxed and as elegantly as they do.
Around the Talaia d’Alcúdia I hike along stony paths along the rock face and can hardly believe my eyes at the sight of the bright turquoise-blue water of the remote bay of Coll Baix. Beautiful impressions that I review on the way back to the harbour promenade of Port d’Alcúdia.
Via old pilgrimage routes to Lluc monastery
Shortly after Pollença I delve into rustic holm oak forests, which become more magical with every step. The sun keeps making its way through the treetops as I walk along narrow paths past moss-covered rocks and ancient, gnarled trees.
At the enchanted springs of Font de “Muntanya”, I take a short picnic break and listen to the gentle babble of the stream.
Soon the initial views of the wild mountain range of the Serra de Tramuntana open up. And I can already see my Day Finish, Lluc monastery, in the distance.
When arriving at this famous place of pilgrimage, I am immediately captivated by the peaceful atmosphere. In the evening I sit in the monastery courtyard for a while and watch the chickens and sheep in a relaxed manner, who reclaim their territory after all the day-tourists have cleared out.
The “Queen’s Stage” is hidden in the fog
My travel documents for today’s tour from Cuber reservoir to Lluc monastery are not stingy with superlatives. Unfortunately, all promised postcard motifs fall victim to the fog today.
I am not letting the weather stop me, and I am happy that I will definitely have a clear view again at the top of the Coll des Prat – the highest pass on Majorca. But no, I was wrong. Icy winds whip my face and I slowly stumble uphill over slippery rocks and boulders. Arriving at the top of the rugged mountain world, I even discover some left-over snow and finally realize, that today I most likely do not need to grab my sunglasses from my backpack.
Despite everything, the route is spectacular and incredibly varied. I am particularly fascinated by the “Casas de neu” along the way, which were used to store snow until the early 20th century. This was then brought down to the valley in summer to cool food.
Back at Lluc monastery, I can hardly believe my eyes when the sun comes out, and I enjoy the fantastic views from the Way of the Cross to the Golgotha.
Beauty in abundance – My personal favorite stage
Today the route leads from Cuber reservoir in the other direction to Sóller, and I am compensated for persevering on the previous hiking day. The sun makes the turquoise water glow, and I am bursting with motivation.
At the side of the road, I first have a cuddle session with two gentle, wild donkeys and am completely over the moon about this encounter. While listening to the soft chiming of the sheep bells in the distance, I slowly meander through the valley and soon reach the 875 m high pass located below the Puig l’Ofre.
As soon as I have taken in the terrific view of Sóller, the West coast and the peaks of the Tramuntana, my absolute highlight of the day awaits me with the “Barranc de Biniaraix”-gorge. Small waterfalls, babbling brooks and carved-out riverbeds accompany me through the ever narrowing gorge. And as if these steep cliffs were not impressive enough, shortly afterwards I land in the small mountain village of Biniaraix, which also enchants me with its charm.
What a wonderful hiking day that brings me to Sóller through orange and lemon plantations.
Pirate-feeling on the coastal path from Deia to Sóller
And once again I have the feeling of walking through a fairytale setting. From the Majorcan mountain village of Deia it is not far to the turquoise-blue waters of the bay of Cala Deia, where I enter the coastal path.
Under the old pine trees, I let myself be enchanted by the play of colours between sky, sea, rocks and the surf and enjoy glorious views of the rocky cliffs. I would like to take a break at the cliffs every few minutes.
As soon as I left the old smugglers‘ path, I followed the markings of the GR221 and soon discovered the Finca Son Mico with its beautifully idyllic location. Here I nestle straight away into an ancient, wooden rocking chair between flowering beds and trees and order a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice. The view from the romantic terrace of the finca could not be more fabulous.
Ancient, gnarled olive trees, each taking more whimsical shapes than the last, finally accompany me back to Port de Sóller harbour.
Finale in the most beautiful mountain village on Majorca
On my final hiking day of the “Trans Tramuntana” I have the choice to take myself from Sóller to the island’s capital Palma in the morning, to stroll through the alleyways or to stroll along the beach promenade to Playa de Palma.
I however would like to savor the Serra de Tramuntana up to the last minute and decide on a final leisurely hike to Fornalutx. Once again, I admire the green and fertile Sóller valley, walk along olive and almond gardens and fragrant orange groves.
No wonder that Fornalutx is winning trophy after trophy as the most beautiful village in Majorca and even in all of Spain. Is there any corner here that is not almost outrageously beautiful? I let myself drift through the lovingly decorated alleys and finally say goodbye with a good dose of melancholy.
On board the old nostalgic train “Red Lightning”, which takes me back from Sóller to Palma, I review the hiking holiday through the Tramuntana mountains. As the train rattles past flocks of sheep grazing peacefully between the olive groves, my hiking heart is full of all the great moments I was able to experience on the “Trans Tramuntana”.