Travel story: Hiking with dog in the Altmühltal

Golden Autumn Forests, Whispering Juniper Heaths, & Enchanting Views

After a hearty breakfast at our hotel in Weißenburg, we feel ready to explore the Altmühltal and set off by car to the spa town of Treuchtlingen. After just a few minutes’ drive, we arrive and take a leisurely walk to the start of our hike. Just beyond the Altmühl Bridge, the first short climb awaits us, accompanied by the already autumn-colored forests and the flowing Altmühl River. We’re rewarded with stunning views of unique rock formations and paths winding through untouched juniper heathlands. Above all, the peacefulness of nature helps us disconnect from everyday life as we savor the many scenic viewpoints overlooking castles and valleys.

Hiker looks into the valley of Pappenheim

Nestled Among Peaceful Hiking Trails & Enchanting Rock Formations

What captivated us most was the stunning view of the Twelve Apostles. After a short climb, these majestic rock formations tower impressively before us. Surrounded by nearly untouched nature, we paused to take in the peaceful scenery. A special treat was a large flock of sheep grazing quietly under the watchful eye of a friendly shepherd—and even a fox that crossed our path. In Eßlingen, we decided to stop at a charming, rustic inn called the “13th Apostle.”

We were especially charmed by its cozy little garden and the historic building that has welcomed guests since 1974. Refreshed, we continued our 25-kilometer hike toward Dollnstein. From a distance, the town’s old city wall came into view, and we strolled leisurely across a lush green meadow, drawing closer to the village’s inviting embrace.

Tracing the Footsteps of Forgotten Times

On our way to Eichstätt, we pass a fascinating fossil quarry on Blumenberg. From this vantage point, we’re treated to a stunning panoramic view of the baroque town nestled in the Altmühltal valley. For those with a sense of adventure, it’s possible to hunt for hidden archaeological treasures and ancient fossils here. We discover that this very mountain was once part of a vast sea landscape some 150 million years ago. Over time, marine creatures were gently buried under layers of limestone mud, slowly turning into stone. When the sea receded, coral reefs transformed into limestone, preserving these prehistoric fossils perfectly to this day. As we continue our hike toward Dollnstein, having admired the majestic Twelve Apostles rock formations, we come across the famed “Solnhofen marble,” a rare limestone unique to this region and still quarried here. Its timeless beauty continues to grace homes and buildings, making it a beloved natural treasure.

View of Pappenheim in the Altmühl valley

Breathtaking views over the Altmühltal valley

Hiker with dog with forest in the background

The Warmth of Franconian Hospitality

After a delightful, leisurely first day of hiking through autumn-hued forests, we arrive in Pappenheim, where the warmth and friendliness of the locals immediately stand out. Right in the heart of town, we discover a cozy café and decide to soak up the gentle sunshine over a good cappuccino. Our gaze naturally drifts to the castle perched on a hill above the town. A friendly local shares that this castle is one of the region’s most significant medieval ruins and was once the ancestral seat of the Counts of Pappenheim, built primarily to ward off unwelcome visitors.

After a pleasant chat, we wander through the charming town before making our way to the hotel. At every stop along our journey, we are greeted with genuine warmth and heartfelt welcomes. Whether in Pappenheim and Dollnstein—two quaint villages steeped in historic charm—or in the larger town of Eichstätt, the friendliness of the people shines through. We feel completely at home in each accommodation and look forward to discovering more of the locals’ stories.

Between Culinary Delights and Dreamy Towns

What’s essential after a long day of hiking? A hearty, satisfying dinner, of course and Franconia is renowned for its rich and comforting cuisine. My dad was especially drawn to regional specialties like Schäufele (pork shoulder) and Fränkische Klöße (Franconian dumplings), while we all enjoyed winding down with a good glass of wine. A leisurely stroll through the charming little towns is a must, so we wandered through picturesque old towns and quaint alleys. I was particularly captivated by Eichstätt and its breathtaking architecture. Staying an extra night here is a great idea to fully explore the city and enjoy wandering its beautiful streets.

Valley view in Solnhofen of rock formations

Hiker on the Forest path to Treuchtlingen

My Conclusion:

The Altmühltal Panorama Trail is the perfect hiking journey for those looking to enjoy nature far from the crowds. The beautiful paths through forests, juniper heaths, and meadows are especially suited for hikers with dogs or anyone who prefers a relaxed pace from village to village. A good level of fitness is recommended, though, as the second stage covers a substantial 25 kilometers. What truly impressed us was the warm hospitality of the locals and the breathtaking views of the unique rock formations. For nature lovers and seekers of peace, this lovely tour comes highly recommended.

My Favorite Spot:

Just after our climb through the Solnhofen nature reserve, winding past rugged rocky cliffs, I finally see them—the Twelve Apostles. I sink into the soft green grass, eyes fixed on these stunning stone pillars, and let my mind wander freely. What a breathtaking view. Up here, away from the rush of everyday life, I feel my soul gently unwind. Beside me, Burrito curls up contentedly in the grass, sharing in this quiet moment of peace and stillness.