Travel story: Walking from Merano to Lake Garda

Off to South Tyrol with a slightly bumpy start

The suitcases are packed, and off we go! But the journey presents us with an immediate challenge, for as we reach around halfway across the Europabrücke, my old Audi 80 coughs and sputters, just barely making it onto the rest area parking lot. The first thing I do is let Stefano, the station manager in Bolzano, know that our arrival will hopefully only be delayed. As luck would have it, a mechanic parks next to us and kindly takes a quick look under the hood. Fortunately, the damage isn’t too severe and is fixed fairly quickly! A few hours later, we’re thankfully back on the road, heading south.

We make a stop in Bolzano, where our colleagues warmly greet us! Since we won’t make it in time for the info meeting in Merano, Basti gives us a great introduction to the tour, packed with helpful tips, interesting insights, and plenty of positive energy. Finally arriving in Merano, we enjoy the mild summer evening and truly start to feel that vacation spirit setting in.

Wine, Apples, and Roses along the path

Accompanied by birdsong, we start the day with a wonderful breakfast on the terrace. Today is the longest stage of our tour and instead of setting off directly from the hotel, we first drive to the horse-racing track and park there to begin our hike. After getting briefly lost a few times in the village of Marling, we decide to rely a bit more on the app than on our own sense of direction going forward. Back on the right trail, we tackle the first climb and are thrilled by this opening stage!

The route follows the Waalwege, passing countless vineyards and apple orchards bordered by colorful blooming roses. Often, we enjoy stunning valley views from the cool shade of the forest’s edge. About halfway through, we take a break for a short but rewarding detour to the Brandis Waterfall — absolutely worth it! Along the way, self-service stands offer fresh apple juice to keep us energized. Finally, we arrive at our hotel in the stage town of Nals, where the host welcomes us warmly. Tired but proud, we kick back on the balcony and reflect on our first day.

From Merano to Lake Garda

8 Days

109 ratings

Two hikers study the hiking map on the post bridge with a view of Merano and the mountains behind it

From Merano to Lake Garda with Charm

8 Days

37 ratings

View from hikers on the hiking trail to Schernag

Nonstop Highlights Along the Way

The second stage is steeped in medieval charm. Though the day begins with a light drizzle, we’re lucky as the sun soon breaks through. Gorgeous forest trails and peaceful Waalwege lead us to the Kreideturm, where we catch our first glimpse of the striking Hocheppan Castle. I’ve always had a soft spot for ruins as they make me wonder what stories those old stones might tell if they could talk.

A narrow, challenging forest path takes us further — first downhill, then back up to Boymont Castle. Surefootedness is definitely required here. We take a break in the castle’s charming inner courtyard, where a cozy restaurant invites us to linger. The historic setting adds a truly special atmosphere to the experience. Throughout this stage, we’re rewarded again and again to stunning views across the valley. If the weather takes a turn, it’s wise to take the alternative route as the steeper sections can quickly become slippery when wet. Once we arrive in Kaltern, we end the day with a glass of wine and a classic South Tyrolean Jause — the perfect way to unwind.

Taking the cable car up to the Mendel Pass

The next morning begins with plans to take the funicular up to the Mendel Pass. Unfortunately, a technical issue puts things on hold. We make the best of it — enjoying a relaxed cappuccino, chatting with two cheerful ladies from Tyrol, and waiting to see what happens. Just in case, Stefano is already prepared to organize a pickup for us. But luck is on our side, just before noon, the funicular resumes service and carries us up to the Mendel Pass. Of course, a quick photo and shopping stop is a must! Then we continue our walk on wide paths through forests and sleepy villages, accompanied by countless darting lizards along the way. Around halfway through, we reach the small and unassuming Bar Centrale in the mountain village of Don — just as marked in the route book.

It’s here that we realize we’ve crossed the language border. Ordering coffee and delicious gelato from an elderly lady, we truly feel like we’ve arrived in Italy! About an hour before the stage’s end, we reach the Santuario San Romedio. We take our time exploring the pilgrimage site, its chapels and quiet rooms, letting the peaceful atmosphere wash over us. When we finally arrive in Coredo, we’re thrilled with our hotel! Instead of exploring the town, we opt for a few well-earned hours in the spa and wellness area, It’s the perfect reward for a day well spent.

Turquoise blue river with pine flowers on the Rio Masso in Molveno

Off to the South Tyrolean mountains!

In high spirits and full of motivation, we’re picked up by Fabricio, who takes us to the starting point of today’s hike. We begin this stage in Spormaggiore, a charming village with that unmistakable Italian flair. We set off along shaded forest trails, then continue on paved paths through quiet little towns. Here, it’s worth keeping a close eye on the route, as the signage can be a bit patchy. Across open meadows, past playgrounds and through parks, we gradually draw closer to the majestic Brenta Dolomites. Before long, we catch our first glimpse of Lake Molveno, nestled between the mountains. With our anticipation building for the final destination, a mountain village in the heart of the mighty Dolomites, we pick up the pace.

The day ends on a high note: a cool Aperol, crispy stone-oven pizza, and the golden glow of the setting sun on our faces. The vacation mood is in full swing – what more could you ask for!

Spoilt for choice

Today offers countless possibilities. Whether you prefer a leisurely walk around the lake, a challenging mountain hike, or a demanding summit climb, it’s a good idea to decide the day before which option suits you best. We take the cable car up to the Pradel mountain area, then hop on the chairlift to reach Rifugio Montanara. Tickets for the chairlift can be bought spontaneously right at the boarding point. At the top, we’re greeted by a breathtaking mountain panorama. From there, we hike along narrow forest trails and beside steep rock faces to Rifugio Croz Altissimo. The views of the mountain range leave us utterly mesmerized! With tired feet, we choose the easier descent via the forest road from the hut instead of the more demanding high-altitude trail. With the Brenta Dolomites always by our side or behind us, we make our way back to Molveno. We celebrate the day with a delicious ice cream sundae and — as you’d expect — pizza and wine in a cozy, authentically Italian tavern.

Person looking out over Lake Garda surrounded by mountains

We made it: the last stage of the journey!

In the morning, we meet Alessandro, who drives us to the starting point of our hike into the Lomason Valley. We trek along steep rock faces through the nature reserve. Two elderly Italians almost rope us into helping with forest work! Neither of us speaks Italian, but with a mix of hand gestures and body language, we manage to communicate well enough. Leaving the nature reserve behind, we catch our first glimpses of our destination—the stunning Lake Garda! Before reaching it, we pass through the medieval fortified village of Calvola, with its old stone houses and narrow streets.

At a small, family-run agriturismo, we savor homemade pasta while taking in breathtaking views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Continuing downhill through gardens and olive groves, we make our way to the village of Varone. Those who prefer can catch the bus to Riva del Garda from Tenno, but if you still have time and energy, a detour to the Cascata Varone is a must—a waterfall plunging 100 meters into a grotto. It’s a spectacular way to end the hike, and we’re grateful for the refreshing spray on this hot day! After a 30-minute bus ride, we finally arrive at our destination: Riva del Garda.

Harbour with colourful boats and quaint façades in Limone sul Garda

My Favorite Spot

What an incredible experience! We were captivated by everything this journey had to offer—from sprawling vineyards and apple orchards to peaceful, off-the-beaten-path Italian villages and stunning mountain ranges. In the end, we felt proud to have covered so many kilometers and ascents, and we’re already dreaming about where our next adventure will lead!

From Merano to Lake Garda

8 Days