Travel Story: Salzkammergut Lakes & Dachstein Glacier

Sun, rain, fog: and why that’s exactly what creates the magic

We begin our hiking journey through the Salzkammergut with mixed feelings. July is rainy, weather apps disagree every day, and we keep wondering: will it be sunshine or rain jackets? But it’s exactly this uncertainty that makes it exciting. Even the first kilometers show us that nature here carries every mood in its own kind of beauty.

When mist hangs between the trees, the landscape feels mystical and calming. Raindrops sparkle on lush green leaves, and raspberry bushes line the paths. Then, suddenly, the sky clears: sunlight dances on the water’s surface and turns the lakes into Caribbean shades of blue. We quickly learn that it’s not about waiting for perfect weather, but about fully embracing every moment. Even drying our soaked clothes by the stove in a mountain hut becomes part of the experience – and, in hindsight, feels like a small victory.

Female hiker in blue jacket on rocky mountain trail in Salzkammergut, surrounded by wildflowers including yellow and purple blooms.

5 refreshing swims: the most beautiful swimming spots along the route

A recurring highlight of this journey is the lakes and streams that accompany us every day. Hardly a day goes by without us jumping into the water. Sometimes it’s ice-cold mountain streams that make the skin tingle, sometimes calm alpine lakes that invite long, relaxed breaks.

The Wolfgangsee greets us with its famous scenery, while the Nussensee surprises us with pleasantly mild water despite the chilly rainy days. In the Ischler Ache, we enjoy a refreshingly clear dip so pure it feels as if we can taste the mountains themselves. Quite different is the Langbathsee, whose colours are almost tropical – turquoise and green, framed by dense forest.

The most memorable swim is at the Gosausee. With a view of the Dachstein Glacier, it feels like swimming inside a postcard. We even start creating our own little ranking: which spot is the coldest, which the most beautiful, where we’d like to stay the longest? And we realise that each place is unique in its own way.

Person swimming in Gosausee lake with snow-capped Dachstein glacier and forested mountains under clear blue sky in Salzkammergut.

Nussensee lake in Salzkammergut with perfect mirror reflection of dense green forest and blue sky on calm water surface.

Sailboats moored on lake with Traunkirchen church on rocky peninsula, dramatic alpine mountains in background under cloudy sky.

Calm Nussensee lake in Salzkammergut framed by green tree branches, reflecting forested mountains under a clear blue sky.

Clear turquoise river with rocks flowing through forest in Salzkammergut. Mountains visible in background under blue sky with green trees lining banks.

From Kaiserschmarrn to cheese platters: culinary delights with a view

Of course, we hike to be out in nature. But honestly, part of the motivation also lies in the mountain huts that await us along the way. Whether it’s a bowl of Kaspressknödel soup by a crackling stove at the Rieder Hütte or Kaiserschmarrn that feels like a well-earned medal after a long stage – food accompanies us every step of the journey. We enjoy how refreshingly down-to-earth everything is here. The hosts serve whatever fits the moment: simple but hearty dishes, often made with ingredients sourced directly from the region.

Alongside that, a small schnapps – not just to warm up, but as a little ritual to celebrate each stage. In these moments, we don’t feel like guests, but almost like part of a community. And as so often, it’s the small things that stay with you: coffee on a hut terrace just after sunrise, homemade bread still warm on the table, or the most unusual snack at the Rinnbergalm, where whole wheels of cheese are served for self-service in a kind of “all you can eat” style.

Female hiker on green alpine meadow with rocky mountain peaks in background. Forested slopes and blue sky visible in Salzkammergut region.

Breakfast table at Postalm with bread, cheese, cold cuts, boiled eggs, and jam. Alpine meadows and mountains visible in background.

Plate of Kaiserschmarrn with powdered sugar and a cup of berry sauce on a wooden table. Eurohike hat beside it, alpine meadow and mountains behind.

Hiker with blue Vaude backpack viewing the jagged Gosaukamm mountain range in Salzkammergut under clear blue sky.

When your legs burn and your heart is smiling

Of course, there are stages that push us to our limits. Over 1,200 meters of elevation gain on the fourth day demand everything from us. The climb is steep, sweat runs down our faces, and conversations slowly fade. But with every step we move higher, and the feeling of reaching the top is indescribable.

It’s not only the view that feels rewarding, but also the sense of having found our own rhythm step by step. Breaks happen naturally – sometimes just for a sip of water, sometimes simply to take in the landscape. Sitting on a bench with a small snack and looking out over the mountains, it becomes clear: it is precisely the effort that makes the moment so valuable.

Along the way, chamois emerge from the mist, butterflies drift across the meadows, and cows with their bells give the alpine pastures their characteristic sound. Encounters like these are small gifts from nature – unplanned and therefore all the more special.

Female hiker with backpack standing on natural rock arch overlooking alpine lake and mountains in Salzkammergut region.

Aerial view from Bleckwand of Wolfgangsee lake surrounded by green valleys and mountains in Salzkammergut, with rocky cliffs in foreground.

Brown butterfly with orange spots perched on a purple clover flower, with a yellow daisy below, surrounded by green grass in Salzkammergut.

Two brown cows grazing on green alpine meadow with forested hills and rocky mountain peaks in the background in Salzkammergut.

Female hiker with blue backpack standing on bridge railing, overlooking Zinkenbach river in Salzkammergut. Dense forest and blue sky visible.

Why adventure begins right outside your doorstep

We experience the Salzkammergut in all its facets: rain, sunshine, fog, crystal-clear lakes, steep climbs, rustic mountain huts, and countless moments of happiness. It’s not always the big long-distance journeys that stay with us, but the small moments of joy: walking the final stretch of a forest path barefoot, the first wheat beer after a long hike, sharing the wonder of a sunrise together.

Two hikers with backpacks sitting on a green meadow in Gosau, viewing the Dachstein glacier and mountain peaks under a clear blue sky.

Rocky cliff with wild vegetation overlooking the turquoise waters of Lake Garda under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

My Conclusion:

At the end of the journey, we realise that we don’t have to travel far to experience a real adventure. The Salzkammergut shows us that the longing for mountains, lakes, and freedom can often be fulfilled right on our doorstep. Hiking is not just movement – it also creates connection: to nature, to the people around us, and to ourselves. Every lake, every summit, every piece of Kaiserschmarrn tells a story. And together, they form an experience that will stay with us for a long time.

My favourite spot: the Ischler Ache

Choosing just one favourite place among so many impressive spots is truly a challenge 😉. On the third day, the Ischler Ache accompanies us for about half of the stage, and I had no choice but to take many short breaks, as its beauty kept captivating me again and again.

So it’s no surprise that nothing made me feel more alive than dipping into the wonderfully clear stream at 30°C, watching the water droplets evaporate from my skin while sitting on warm rocks, and simply staying in that moment with a sense of gratitude.

Woman with long dark hair sitting on a rock by the turquoise Ischler Ache river in Salzkammergut, surrounded by green meadows and trees.