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Coastal hiking on Sardinia's east coast

Off to the south and escape the cold

At the end of September, when autumn was already setting in in Austria, my boyfriend and I headed to Sardinia, more precisely to the rugged east coast. We couldn’t wait to fly to the warm south to extend the summer a little longer and enjoy the hiking season to the full. A hiking trip in southern Italy is a great way to escape the cooler temperatures of autumn and spring!

On the transfer to our accommodation in Santa Maria Navarrese we get a good first impression of the island. We are looking forward to the upcoming hiking days and having a great time!

The crowning stage

The start of the hike is also the so-called ‘king's stage’ of the entire hiking tour. At the beginning, the trail leads along the coast with beautiful views of the endless sea. As the path then becomes steeper and steeper, we realise why this is also the most demanding hike. The further up we hike, the more dense fog reaches us. So we leave the beautiful sea behind. With the help of the GPS data and the route book, however, we always quickly find the right path, which leads past shepherds' huts up to the Golgo plateau. Here we meet many animal companions, such as goats, pigs, cows and donkeys.

When we reach the accommodation "Cooperativa Goloritzé" after a long day of hiking, we receive a friendly welcome and enjoy a typical dinner.

Sardinia's diversity: from lonely hiking trails to impressive bays

The rest of the day is spent on hiking trails, some of them via wooden ladders, to the beautiful bays of "Cala Goloritzè" and "Cala Mariolu". Once you reach the bottom, you can quickly forget the exertion in the cool waves. As we always have our diving goggles packed, we can observe many small colourful fish. After the break at the sea, we make our way back to the Rifugio. Our tip: You should plan some time and tasty provisions for the way back. A special highlight for us is the drive from the Rifugio to the start of the hike near "Cala Sisine".

Monica, a staff member at the accommodation, tells us many interesting stories on the approximately one-hour drive over the stony road, which then leads through a canyon. Afterwards, the path continues through the forest over the karst plateau to the bay "Cala Luna". Here, in addition to many bathers, we also meet some climbers. The striking rock faces directly on the coast offer a special atmosphere. To reach the stage destination and at the same time the last place of the hiking tour, we take a boat to Cala Gonone. During the boat trip we look back at the impressive coastline.

Cala Gonone: Starting point for many adventures

Cala Gonone is a popular small tourist town and the starting point for many excursions inland, as well as to coves and grottos. A special attraction is the "Bue Marino" grotto. In the 1980s, monk seals could still to be found here, today the name reminds us of the well-known cave system. Unfortunately, the grotto was closed during our stay. We decided to hike only as far as Cala Fiuli and spend a relaxing afternoon swimming here.

To really enjoy the last day of hiking in Sardinia, we decide to take the coastal path with great views of the sea instead of hiking around Monte Irveri to "Cala Cartoe". At the beginning, we take a short diversion to explore the lava rocks directly by the sea before we take the hiking trail above to reach our destination for the day.

Our conclusion

We will always have fond memories of our hiking week in Sardinia. Even though it was relatively warm for the end of September, we looked forward to a new hike every day. The secluded hiking trails with impressive views offer the perfect retreat and make any hiker's heart beat faster.

  • Our tip: Diving goggles and swimwear are highly recommended for the hikes to refresh yourself in between and discover the colourful underwater world.

The Italian hospitality and our new friends made this hiking holiday, which we will remember for a long time, something very special!

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