Travel story: Hiking on the Via Spulga

Viamala Gorge: Up Close with Nature’s Power

Our very first day was already a highlight. The route began with an immediate climb before leading us through a forest, providing plenty of shade for both us and our dog—otherwise, with temperatures reaching 27°C, it would have been rather hot. The day included a visit to the Viamala Gorge, which I had been eagerly anticipating—and I was not disappointed. Standing at the entrance, I looked down at the wild Rhine and marveled at how the water had carved its way so deeply and narrowly through the rock. Wooden walkways, bridges, and stairs led us right into the gorge—a spectacular start that immediately made it clear: this adventure was something truly special.

After exploring the impressive gorge, we paused for a short break by the riverbed. The icy water looked incredibly tempting—but it was a bit too cold for me. My boyfriend, braver than I, took a quick dip in the freezing mountain water “refreshing,” he declared, without a doubt!

Hiker crosses the bridge over the Vimala Gorge

Hiker with dog on the suspension bridge over the Hinterrhein

Rofla Gorge: A Forest Paradise

On the second day, we reached the Rofla Gorge—smaller than the Viamala, yet just as impressive. Right at the entrance, we were warmly welcomed by a lady who collected our vouchers. Being the only visitors at the time, she took the opportunity to share the story of how this remarkable gorge was formed. Over millennia, the Hinterrhein had carved its way through the hard rock, shaping this narrow and powerful gorge. In the 19th century, a clever innkeeper had a tunnel blasted through the rock, allowing visitors to reach the waterfall—a path we naturally followed.

There was also a little extra treat: anyone who wished could have freshly caught trout prepared on the spot—grilled with a stunning view of the surrounding nature. Since we arrived early in the morning, we skipped this experience—but I would definitely recommend it to anyone visiting later in the day. It’s a special place where nature, history, and hospitality come together up close.

Hiking couple with dog in the Rofl Gorge

Hiker with her dog takes a break at Lake Sufner

View of the Rofl Gorge between green trees

Hiker with dog walking across wooden suspension bridge

Up High and Back Down Again

A scenic highlight of the tour was the loop hike to the Suretta Lakes. After a steady climb, the landscape suddenly opened up. We reached a wide high plateau, where two crystal-clear mountain lakes sparkled in the sun. We found a quiet spot to relax and dangle our feet—but what we completely forgot was sunscreen. The UV radiation at this altitude was relentless, and we returned to the valley not only with unforgettable memories but also with a serious sunburn. Ouch. Lesson learned—sunscreen became a permanent part of our gear from that moment on, no matter how fresh the mountain breeze felt!

The next day brought a special moment: the Splügen Pass. At over 2,100 meters, it was one of the highest points of the journey. The view back into Switzerland was breathtaking, and looking ahead, it was clear: Italy awaited. The descent to Isola was steep and required sure-footedness, but the change in scenery was striking—the slopes grew greener, the sun warmer, and the promise of Italian cuisine loomed closer.

Hiker and dog take a break in front of the lake

Blue flowers with lake and mountain panorama

Hiking selfie with mountain panorama in the background

Mountain panorama with a view of a snow-covered peak and Lake Suretta

Hiker and dog take a break and look up at the mountain peak

Wild Encounters Along the Way

Hiking takes you straight through living landscapes. Among rocks, forests, and meadows, we often come across the animals that shape these surroundings. Some we spot from a distance, while others come surprisingly close—these wildlife encounters quickly became some of the most memorable moments of our journey. Right at the start, things got exciting: we had to pass through a cow enclosure. Not unusual in itself, but with a dog on a leash, caution was necessary. The cows were curious and approached us—with their big eyes and powerful bodies, they were truly impressive. We stayed calm, gave them space, and made it safely through the herd. A small adventure that provided our first dose of adrenaline—and a healthy respect for these gentle giants.

A completely different experience awaited us on our hike to the Suretta Lakes. Even before reaching the open high plateau, we heard a sharp whistling sound. And there they were: alpine marmots! At first, we spotted just one among the rocks, then several more. Some observed us curiously, while others darted back into their burrows in an instant.

And then—the moment that surprised us most. Walking through a quiet stretch of forest, my partner suddenly stopped and pointed up the slope. I followed his gaze—and could hardly believe my eyes: ibex. Several of them moved gracefully across the terrain, confident and fast. They came surprisingly close, nearly crossing our path, before disappearing just as quickly as they had appeared. These encounters weren’t planned highlights—they were spontaneous, authentic experiences with nature that left a lasting impression.

From Capuns to Carbonara: A Culinary Journey Across the Alps

The culinary experience along the Via Spluga perfectly mirrors the journey from one country to the next. In Switzerland, we were greeted with hearty, rustic dishes—ideal after an active day on the trail. Standouts included the Bündner barley risotto, wonderfully creamy, and, of course, the traditional capuns—dough rolls wrapped in Swiss chard leaves with cheese and speck. At first, we were a little skeptical, but they tasted far better than they looked!

Crossing the Splügen Pass brought more than just a change in scenery—the food transformed too, becoming unmistakably Italian. And what’s essential here? Pizza, pasta, espresso. While the two cuisines are worlds apart, they share one thing in common: after a day of hiking, everything tastes twice as good.

Hiker with dog and breathtaking view of the Schlügen Pass

Hiker walking along the Boffalora hiking trail

Wooden bridge with mountain panorama and mountain river

Isola to Chiavenna: A Moving Finale

The final day began early. With a touch of wistfulness, we left Isola and followed the Liro River, winding through forests and small villages. The sun was generous, with temperatures climbing above 30°C. We decided to skip the museum in Campodolcino and simply savor the surrounding nature.

We paused frequently, cooling our feet in the river and letting the path reveal itself at a leisurely pace. Then, suddenly—a sweeping view opened up: Chiavenna lay ahead. Red rooftops, effortless Italian charm, and the unmistakable sense of arrival. We had made it—on foot, at our own pace, carrying with us moments that would linger long after the journey ended.

Hiker with a view of the Chiavenna valley

My favourite spot

Just before descending to the Suretta Lakes, we discovered a truly special place. A small, simple “bridge” of stones and wood spanned the mountain river flowing straight from the lake. Around us, there was nothing but water, rocks, and the panorama of the Swiss Alps. No crowds, no distractions—just us and this serene moment. For me, it was the most beautiful spot of the entire journey. A place to breathe, marvel, and reflect. I will carry the memory of this view with me for a long time.