Travel story: Salzburg Pinzgau and Kitzbühel Alps

Along panoramic trails through Salzburg’s Pinzgau region

No sooner had we set off on our hiking adventure through Pinzgau and Kitzbühel than the weather started to test us. Snow had fallen before our journey, covering many of the usual trails under a thick blanket. Still, that didn’t stop us from discovering the region’s stunning beauty. Thanks to careful planning and the many bad-weather options in our route book, Hannes and I set new goals each day and hit the trails—each stage bringing its own unforgettable experience.

Culinary Highlights

After an active day, there’s nothing better than returning to the hotel and looking forward to a delicious dinner. Half board is the perfect choice: every evening, we’re treated to tasty, classic Austrian dishes. From hearty Knödel (dumplings) and juicy Zwiebelrostbraten (onion roast beef) to delicate desserts like Kaiserschmarrn—the region’s cuisine is traditional and comforting, just what you need after a long day of hiking. Sitting in the dining room with a glass of Sommerspitzer (known locally in Maria Alm as “Unterhauser” — a white wine spritzer), we reflect on the day and start planning which route to tackle next.

We’re particularly impressed by the breakfast buffet, which offers everything you could ask for: fresh Semmeln (bread rolls), homemade jams, a variety of cheeses and cold cuts, and, of course, fresh coffee and tea. These meals provide the perfect energy boost for our hikes—and it’s reassuring to know that after a full day of activity, a hearty dinner awaits us.

Cozy Mountain Retreats

Our accommodations are a true comfort for both body and mind. We stay in a mix of charming 3-star and comfortable 4-star hotels, each distinguished by their warm atmosphere and excellent service. The rooms are cozy, often offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, which—depending on the weather—are sometimes blanketed in snow or glowing with golden autumn colors.

What we especially appreciate is the attention to detail. At every hotel, we’re warmly welcomed and clearly informed about half-board options, breakfast times, and more. The staff are consistently friendly, always helpful, and genuinely attentive to every request. After often chilly days outdoors, it was a true pleasure to return to the warm and cozy atmosphere of the hotels—and to be asked with genuine curiosity, “Which route did you take today?” The spa areas in some of the hotels are a real highlight, too: after a day outside, relaxing in the sauna and then wrapping yourself in a soft blanket is pure bliss.

Bad Weather Route Options: The Perfect Alternative

Since many of the standard trails were impassable due to snow, we focused on the bad-weather options from our route book—and these routes are just as rewarding as the classic hikes. Most of these paths run through the valleys, making them accessible even in unsettled weather. Despite the lower elevation, they still offer stunning views and unforgettable experiences in nature. The landscape along each stage looks like something straight out of a postcard: rustic alpine huts, deep green forests, and the mighty white peaks of the mountains on the horizon. There’s something calming about listening to the sound of flowing water as we follow the slightly muddy trails through the forests of Pinzgau.

Along the route, there are plenty of spots to take a short rest on a bench or stop by one of the charming alpine huts. At one of these, we treat ourselves to a hearty serving of Kasnocken before continuing our hike.

Fairytale Settings: Castles, Castle Ruins, and Hidden Chapels

One of the true highlights of our tour is the option to use cable cars and buses, which offer a convenient and enjoyable way to get around. They not only ease the climbs to higher trails or shorten the stretches back down to the valley but also add a touch of adventure to the journey itself. The bus rides between stages give us the perfect opportunity to sit back, relax, and soak in the beautiful scenery at a leisurely pace. Plus, thanks to the guest card provided by some of our accommodations, many of these rides are included—making travel even easier.

The region is a treasure trove of history, where ancient castle ruins whisper secrets of bygone eras, quiet chapels nestle like hidden gems, and charming little castles seem to have stepped straight out of a storybook. We are especially enchanted by Schloss Ritzen, perched beside the serene Ritzensee, and the majestic fortress of Pass Strub, standing proudly against the sky. Along winding paths, quaint chapels invite us to pause, reflect, and soak in the tranquil magic of the surroundings.

Conclusion: A Multifaceted Journey Full of Surprises and Discoveries

Our hiking vacation in the Salzburger Pinzgau and the Kitzbühel Alps turned into an unforgettable experience, made even more special by the changing weather. The lush green forests, babbling rivers, and snow-capped mountain peaks were breathtaking—and the variety of routes ensured that every hike felt like a fresh and exciting adventure. The perfect combination of delicious cuisine, exceptional hotels, and breathtaking nature makes this vacation truly unforgettable. For anyone looking for a harmonious blend of adventure, relaxation, and indulgence, I wholeheartedly recommend this hiking tour. Rain or shine, the region’s unique charm shines through, offering hiking routes to suit every kind of weather.

My Favorite Spot

On the shore of Lake Pillersee, we discovered our favorite spot: a small bench beside a wooden jetty that stretches gently over the water. Before us, the shimmering lake mirrors the surrounding majesty—behind us rise the towering cliffs of the Loferer Steinberge; to the right, the Steinplatte marks the border between Germany and Austria; and to the left, the iconic Jakobskreuz crowns the Buchensteinwand. In this stunning setting, we unpack our lunch and let the calm and vastness of the moment wash over us. Here, nature unfolds in all its serene beauty.