Travel story: Hiking in Piedmont

Arrival in Alba the Truffle Capital

We set off by car towards the southwest, heading to Alba and our first hotel, the Hotel Calissano. Upon arrival, we receive a warm welcome from the staff at reception and are pleased to discover that we can leave our car in the hotel's underground garage for the entire week for the remarkably affordable price of €50. After recovering from the long drive, we are eager to explore the heart of Alba. Of course, we also have one particular goal in mind: finding a charming restaurant with a great atmosphere and excellent food. Strolling through the narrow streets in the warm May evening sun is simply delightful. We browse the inviting boutiques and let ourselves be guided by the tempting aromas drifting through the town.

Following our noses, we eventually find ourselves at the highly recommended Bistrot Duomo, where we round off the evening with delicious tajarin al tartufo and a glass of Barolo wine.

Large metal sculpture of a stylized figure in a circular fountain basin on a town square in Alba, Piedmont, with historic buildings in background.

Following the Scents of Piedmont

Well rested and after a hearty breakfast, we once again wander through the streets of Alba in the early morning, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and a faint sweet aroma in the air. The scent, as we soon learn, comes from the nearby Nutella factory, where production is already underway. With the route well signposted and the practical Eurobike & Eurohike On Tour app guiding us along the way, we begin our first climb of the tour. Passing elegant houses and impressive villas, we soon reach a turn-off leading into the countryside, where beautiful views open up over Alba and the snow-dusted Swiss-Italian Alps in the distance.

Crossing colourful poppy fields, we continue towards our first major highlight and the birthplace of one of Italy's most renowned wines: Barbaresco. Arriving around lunchtime, we treat ourselves to a delicious snack and, naturally, a small tasting of the region's famous wine. Later in the afternoon, we reach what would become our favourite accommodation of the entire trip: Ca Tupin, located on the outskirts of Treiso. Hosts Luca and Stefania welcome us warmly, accompanied by their two affectionate dogs, and immediately invite us to enjoy a coffee and some friendly conversation.

Female hiker with blue backpack viewing rolling vineyard hills in Piedmont, Italy. A hilltop village is visible in the distance.

Pink roses in foreground with hilltop village Gaia and rolling vineyards in Piedmont under blue sky with white clouds.

Female hiker with blue backpack standing on rock near Benevello, overlooking rolling hills with vineyards in Piedmont under blue sky.

Bright red poppies in foreground with rolling vineyard hills under blue sky in Piedmont. Green grapevines and trees cover the hillsides.

Cherry tree with ripe red and yellow cherries in Barbaresco, Piedmont. Rolling vineyard hills and blue sky in the background.

Crystal-clear Lake Jasna with emerald green water reflecting mountains and forests. Dense coniferous forests surround the lake in the Julian Alps.

Authentic Accommodation Full of Character:

After just the first few nights, we quickly realised that these were far more than ordinary places to stay. Each accommodation was authentic, full of character and so welcoming that we could easily have stayed longer. One place that deserves special mention is Ca Tupin. There, we were treated like royalty, family members and friends all at once. The warm hospitality of Luca and Stefania made us feel at home from the very first moment and turned our stay into one of the highlights of the entire trip.

On the Trail of Piedmont's Famous Hazelnuts

We quickly notice the vineyards becoming fewer as the landscape changes. The trails lead steadily uphill, and before long we find ourselves hiking through shady forests rather than rows of grapevines. There can only be one explanation: we're on the trail of Piedmont's famous hazelnuts.

Our destination for the day is Cravanzana, a small town renowned for producing what many consider to be the world's finest hazelnuts. These prized nuts are even part of Nutella's original Italian recipe.

After a rewarding day on the trail, we arrive at our beautiful accommodation, Villa Alta Langa, where we're warmly welcomed by our host Petra and her friendly dog. Following a short break, we decide to have dinner at Da Maurizio. Petra kindly takes care of the reservation for us and even arranges a hazelnut tasting at her friend's farm, Cuor di nocciola delle Langhe .

Without a doubt, this turns out to be one of the highlights of our entire trip. Sampling hazelnuts in countless different variations is an absolute delight. We enjoy them so much that, ever since returning home, we've been ordering them regularly. Their commitment to organic farming, regional production, and complete transparency makes them every bit as impressive as their outstanding flavour.

Illuminated hilltop village of Cravanzana in Piedmont at dusk, with a castle glowing orange above white houses, surrounded by fog and trees.

Woman with glasses in delicatessen in Cravanzana, Piedmont, standing behind table with wooden boxes of products, wine bottles and jars on shelves.

Open hand holding three brown hazelnuts with green foliage in the background in Piedmont.

Historic church complex in Cravanzana, Piedmont, with weathered brick facade and bell tower under cloudy sky.

Wooden shelf displaying local products from Cravanzana: hazelnuts in glass jars, black jars with copper lids, and wine bottles against a beige wall.

The Village of Roses

Today's stage begins with a descent through hazelnut groves before the trail climbs once again, rewarding us with beautiful views of Piedmont's neighbouring villages from several open clearings along the way. We continue along a wide ridge towards the south until we reach Bossolasco, the famous Village of Roses. It's immediately noticeable that the village is rather quiet during our visit. As we learn from the locals, the main tourist season arrives later in the year during the grape harvest in autumn. With an average distance of around 17 kilometres per day, the stages are very manageable and technically not demanding at all. However, travelling through this lesser-known part of Piedmont in mid-May teaches us one important lesson: always carry enough provisions. Many of the villages along the route are very quiet, and opportunities to stop for refreshments can be limited.

That evening in Bossolasco, we discover Drogheria di Langa, an unassuming restaurant that quickly proves to be a real hidden gem. We settle in for dinner and enjoy a delicious meal beside a crackling fireplace in a wonderfully cosy atmosphere. It is the perfect place to reflect on the day's adventures and bring another memorable day of hiking to a close.

Yellow roses bloom along a cobblestone street in Bossolasco, Piedmont, with traditional houses and a church tower visible in the background.

San Giovanni Battista Church in Bossolasco, Piedmont, with stone facade, bell tower, and three arched entrances on a cobblestone square.

Braised fennel with caramelized onions on white plate, garnished with purple flower. Bread, wine glasses, and grissini on wooden table.

Two-story delicatessen interior with spiral staircase, mint-green shelving, wooden tables, and products displayed on walls and counters.

Hiking in Serralunga d'Valle

The next morning, we set off once again, feeling refreshed and ready for another day on the trail. Before long, we find ourselves looking back at Bossolasco, perched at around 750 metres above sea level and resembling a charming mountain village in the heart of the Langhe region.

This day would turn out to be one of the most beautiful of the entire trip. As the forests begin to thin, we are rewarded with our first views of Monviso, rising majestically above the clouds. Along the way, countless postcard-worthy panoramas await us, including the charming and vibrant village of Monforte d'Alba, one of the highlights of the day. By lunchtime, another culinary experience is waiting for us. While enjoying a delicious snack, we sample regional hazelnuts and a variety of nut oils that are typical of the area.

In the afternoon, we continue towards our accommodation for the night. Hotel Le Arcate impresses us with breathtaking views stretching across the vineyards and far into the surrounding countryside. However, this spectacular panorama has to be earned first. From the village of Sinio, there are still two kilometres uphill to tackle in the warm afternoon sun. The effort is well worth it. A refreshing dip in the hotel pool provides welcome relief before we round off the day with an excellent dinner in the hotel restaurant.

Hilltop village of Baratta framed by green leaves, with forested hills and snow-capped Alpine peaks visible in the distance under a blue sky.

Rolling vineyard hills in Piedmont with rows of grapevines and scattered trees. Snow-capped Alpine peaks visible in the distance under blue sky.

Two hikers taking a selfie in Piedmont with green hills and fields. Man with cap and woman in turquoise jacket, both wearing backpacks.

Rolling vineyard hills in Piedmont with the village of Sinio on a hilltop. Green grapevines in foreground, blue sky with white clouds above.

View of Baudra village on a hilltop in Piedmont with green fields, vineyards, and snow-capped Alps in the distance under blue sky.

Grande Finale in Barolo

After another wonderful day of hiking through the vineyards, which provide welcome shade along much of the route, the final stretch leads us uphill into the village of Barolo under the warm afternoon sun. Once we arrive, we head straight to our hotel, as another highlight is already waiting for us later that day: a wine tasting at the Marchesi winery. During an insightful guided tour, we learn about the differences between Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, and Barolo wines. We discover where the vines are grown, how the various soils influence the wines' characteristics, and which aromas and flavours make each variety unique. Barolo is famous far beyond the borders of Italy and is considered one of the country's most prestigious red wines.

Produced from the Nebbiolo grape, which thrives in the hills of Piedmont, Barolo is renowned for its complexity, elegance, and remarkable ageing potential. Unsurprisingly, we decide to take home a bottle of this exceptional wine ourselves. A place full of character and history, Barolo captivates wine lovers from around the world. After the tasting, we decide to spend some more time exploring the village and soaking up its unique atmosphere. As evening approaches, we wander through the narrow streets in search of a cosy restaurant for dinner. Before long, we find exactly what we're looking for. Tucked away in a quiet side street, a charming Italian restaurant welcomes us with regional specialities and a wonderfully inviting atmosphere. It is the perfect ending to a day dedicated entirely to gourmet experiences, local cuisine, and the rich wine culture of Piedmont.

Barolo Castle courtyard in Piedmont with cream-colored facade, red brick accents, arched windows, and crenellated tower under blue sky.

Set table with wine glasses and pink roses on a terrace overlooking Barolo village in Piedmont, with historic buildings and vineyards.

Symmetrical rows of large wooden wine barrels with red trim in a vaulted brick cellar in Barolo, Piedmont, with a central fountain.

Lilly holding a Barolo wine bottle in front of rolling vineyard hills in Piedmont. She stands by a brick wall with green terraced vineyards behind.

Wine tasting room with rows of empty wine glasses on wooden cabinet. Gold plaque reads 'Marchesi di Barolo'. White walls with signatures.

Plate with aubergine lasagne and arugula salad, served with red wine in Barolo, Piedmont. A second plate is visible in the background.

Rolling vineyards in Roddino, Piedmont, with purple wildflowers in foreground. Village with church tower visible on hilltop under blue sky.

My conclusion:

For me, this trip was a truly memorable experience. The combination of stunning landscapes and exceptional local cuisine is simply hard to beat. If you prefer lively villages, bustling wine festivals, and a vibrant atmosphere, I would recommend visiting in autumn. We travelled to Piedmont in May and experienced a completely different side of the region, one that felt peaceful, authentic, and wonderfully unspoilt. Many locals told us that the region truly comes to life during the autumn harvest season, when the grape harvest and truffle season attract visitors from near and far.

Yet travelling in spring had its own special charm. We often had the trails almost entirely to ourselves and were able to enjoy the landscapes and unique atmosphere at a relaxed pace. A journey to slow down, discover new places, and savour the very best of Piedmont.

My favourite Spot:

Along the trail, bathed in the increasingly warm morning sun, we unexpectedly come across a simple wooden bench. At first, we think it would be a nice place to stop for a photo. But it turns out to be so much more than that. Sitting there arm in arm, we find ourselves completely immersed in the present moment. Surrounded by a beautiful landscape full of life and unspoilt nature, we listen to the sounds of wildlife and enjoy the peaceful stillness of the early morning hours.

A favourite spot does not have to be something extraordinary. For me, simply sitting down, gazing into the distance, and fully taking in the beauty of the region was one of the most memorable moments of the trip. It perfectly captures what gourmet hiking in Piedmont is all about: slowing down, appreciating the surroundings, and savouring every moment along the way.

Woman with blue backpack sitting on wooden bench overlooking green valley in Piedmont. Forested hills and mountains under blue sky.