Travel Report: Exploring the Wachau with a Dog

Setting Off from Krems: Through Vineyards & Peaceful Landscapes

We begin our journey in Krems and within just a few minutes find ourselves surrounded by vineyards. The weather is rather cool, but actually perfect for hiking. A light mist still hangs over the Danube Valley, while the sun occasionally breaks through the clouds.

Kylie is already in her element. In fact, she seems reluctant to leave the vineyards behind, eagerly sniffing her way from one vine to the next. Time and again, she stops to investigate new scents, creating plenty of little breaks along the trail. Anyone who has ever hiked with a dog will know that sometimes it's not the route that sets the pace, but the most interesting smell along the path.

View of Weissenkirchen village with church tower through terraced vineyards in Wachau. Misty hills and Danube River visible in background.

Forest Trails Full of Tranquility & Natural Beauty

We especially enjoy the forest sections between the villages. After walking through open vineyards, it feels wonderful to spend some time beneath the shelter of the trees. The woodland paths also offer a bit of protection from the wind and light rain, which can be quite common in autumn. A particularly memorable encounter awaits us a little later beside a moss-covered stone at the edge of the forest. There, we spot a fire salamander with its striking yellow markings. We pause for a moment to watch it. For us, these unexpected encounters are often just as special as the panoramic viewpoints or famous landmarks along the trail.

From time to time, the trees open up to reveal wonderful views of the Danube. This contrast is exactly what we love most about the region: wide-open vistas one moment, peaceful forest trails the next, inviting you to slow down and discover something new around every corner.

Black and yellow fire salamander on moss-covered rock in Wachau forest. Green foliage visible in blurred background.

Elevated view of Dürnstein village with red-roofed houses, vineyards, and the Danube River winding through the Wachau Valley under cloudy skies.

Two smiling female hikers sharing a black umbrella on a rainy day in Wachau. One wears a rain jacket and cap, the other a rain poncho.

Female hiker with blue backpack at stone archway in Stein an der Donau, Wachau. Church tower and hills visible in background.

Female hiker with blue backpack standing in vineyard overlooking the Danube River and mountains in Wachau valley under cloudy skies.

A Well-Earned Stop at a Traditional Heuriger

No trip to the Wachau would be complete without a visit to a traditional Heuriger. This time, we stop at Gruber's Heuriger and immediately feel welcome. After several kilometres on foot, the regional specialties taste even better. We treat ourselves to a glass of Grüner Veltliner and a traditional snack platter, taking our time to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. What we particularly appreciate is how warm and uncomplicated the welcome is for guests travelling with dogs. It makes the whole experience feel even more enjoyable and carefree.

Traditional Austrian Heuriger platter with cheeses, cold cuts, boiled egg, grapes, vegetables, and bread rolls in a basket on a wooden table.

Arriving in Spitz: Wine, History & Regional Flavours

On the final day of our hike, we arrive in Spitz. To round off the journey, we take part in a wine tasting and learn more about the long winemaking tradition of the Wachau.

During the included tasting, we sample a selection of local wines and quickly notice how diverse they are. Some are light and fruity, while others are richer and more full-bodied. For us, it is the perfect way to conclude this stage of the journey.

Vaulted wine cellar with brick arches, wooden tasting table, and wine bottles stored in alcoves. Iron chandelier hangs from ceiling.

A Relaxed Finale at the Winery in Krems

After returning from Spitz to Krems, where our car is waiting for us, we're not quite ready for the journey to end. Instead, we visit Winzer Krems – Sandgrube 13 and join one of their guided winery tours. The experience is both engaging and informative, offering fascinating insights into the world of winemaking. It gives us a real appreciation for the expertise, dedication, and hard work that go into every bottle.

Of course, we can't leave without taking a few souvenirs home. Several bottles find their way into the trunk and will no doubt remind us of this wonderful hiking trip for a long time to come. We're pretty sure that the next time we open a bottle, we'll immediately be thinking of the vineyards, the forest trails, and our breaks overlooking the Danube.

Wooden shelves displaying wine bottles from Krems winery. Top shelf shows four dark bottles and a framed Austrian wine certificate.

Row of wooden wine barrels labeled 'Winzer Krems' on metal stands against a concrete wall in a cellar with red floor.

Large floor map of Wachau wine region near Krems displayed in museum room with vineyard illustrations on walls and decorative panels between windows.

Wine tasting setup at Domäne Wachau in Dürnstein with glasses, carafe, and map on table. Wooden shelves with wine bottles visible in background.

My Conclusion

The Wachau truly impressed us with its unique blend of stunning landscapes, charming villages, and genuine hospitality. The trails are wonderfully varied, leading through vineyards and forests and regularly rewarding hikers with viewpoints that invite you to pause and take in the scenery. Even though the sun didn't make an appearance all the time, this journey felt full of warmth. That warmth came from the people we met along the way, the delicious local food, the excellent wine, and the many small moments that simply can't be planned. Kylie enjoyed every stage of the hike and once again showed us just how rewarding it can be to travel with a dog.

For us, this trip was about much more than simply walking from one place to another. It combines nature, local cuisine, and countless memorable moments, creating an experience that stays with you long after you've returned home. And one thing is certain: we'll be back.

My Favourite Spot:

One of our favourite moments of the entire trip comes between Dürnstein and Weißenkirchen. Shortly after passing Weingut Pomassl, we turn right onto a small country path and arrive at a quiet viewpoint. At first, we only intend to stop for a moment, but it quickly turns into a much longer break.

The view across the Danube Valley is simply breathtaking. Below us lie the vineyards, the Danube winding through the landscape, and the picturesque villages dotted along its banks. We sit down, unpack a small snack, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Naturally, Kylie makes the most of the pause as well and settles comfortably beside us, as if she had always belonged there.

Yellow winery building with green shutters in Krems, Wachau. Sign reads 'Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13' on the facade.